June 14, 2014
Depart Gander on Route 330 around 11:00. Seeing big bergs from the road as we crest hills heading for Carmanville before noon. Apparently THIS is the shortest route from Gander to bergs!
Bergs are far off shore but plentiful and big.
A stop at the wharf to see if Heather and Melvin are around their boat but we missed them. The Black Eagle must have her crab quota like the rest. She sits quietly with the MJ Nadine of Cold Water Cowboy fame.
Our next stops are Aspen Cove and Ladle Cove. This is the view driving in.
A short walk up the end of a road provided an expanse of sky, ice and sea. Iceberg ice was piling on the rocky beach.
In addition to the beautiful icebergs we couldn’t help but notice this great Newfoundland trompe d’oeil art work. It reminded me of Adam Young’s http://www.ayoungstudios.com/paintings.
Waves are a constant along the straight shore from Musgrave Harbour towards Lumsden. Campers have set up for the summer and while the women chatted after lunch, the men were trouting in a pond up the road. These gracious ladies allowed me to take their picture after a nice visit.
Heading to Musgrave Harbour we looked for a road leading to a beach. Even better, we found a very rough gravel road that lead us about 4 or 5 km to Deadman’s Bay. The drive was very slow due to washed out culverts under repair and some very precarious awaiting repair and the amazing view of hundreds of icebergs. Between the ‘road’ and the ocean were a series of glasslike ponds. Seven weeks into this iceberg chasing addiction, we are still shaking our heads in wonder. Each turn expands the numbers and they seem to continue to get bigger as we head east.
Leo finally found ‘his spot’ and decided to harvest some ice from the beach. Iceberg ice is made of fresh water although it is floating in the Atlantic Ocean. The ice has some special qualities in addition to the bragging rights of being able to offer it to guests in a drink. Bubbles trapped in the ice cause a cracking sound as the ice melts and produces tiny bubbles coming to the surface.
Deadmans’ Bay is followed on the ‘Loop” by Cape Freels. Again, ice everywhere.
Two years ago, although we saw them from a distance on the main road, we were unable to see any icebergs in Lumsden. Good recovery Lumsden!
We finally had to stop at a convenience store for a sub as we had run out of green grapes and had eaten the emergency chocolate bar. That famous Bread Box breakfast sandwich was a thing of the past. Had a great chat with a pirate and was wishing we’d looked more closely on the beaches of Lumsden.
Cape Freels continued the show.
We were hoping the Barbour site in Newtown would be open but it seems to be undergoing a lot of renovations in some areas. Mostly the new areas like the gift shop. This is a great place and we decided it will be a destination sometime when we have company. Did you hear that Dad?
I really wanted to get a picture of icebergs and the lovely churches in Newtown but the bergs were at a distance. I did visit inside the church and seriously considered the bell tower as a photo location and then had visions of being rescued by volunteer firefighters and decided I was best on the ground.
Greenspond can speak for itself.
A late supper at Kittiwake Kitchen and we were going back to the TransCanada Highway and Gander. Another 9 hour drive. Another couple of hundred icebergs and a great excuse to end the evening with something in a fancy glass. With iceberg ice, of course.
Turn up your sound to hear the crackling of iceberg ice.